15 YEAR  of Professional experience means the experience that occurred through full-time employment in an educational related field or in a field in which the person intends to be licensed.

Older talent have a better self-knowledge

The young talent entering the workforce aren’t just gaining skills and experience -- they’re embarking on a journey of self-discovery. They may not fully recognize the reflection they see in their mirrors each morning. And there’s certainly something attractive about hiring talent who can be shaped and taught. They’re filled with passion, energy and an eagerness to develop. However, as part of this rite of passage, young workers may also discover that they don’t enjoy the jobs they’re doing. For twenty-somethings fresh out of college, changing careers can be as frequent and sudden an exercise as changing majors. Their quest to grow can sometimes make them greater flight risks.

Older candidates are considerably more likely to be grounded. They have cultivated their identities and their work ethics. In short, they know precisely who they are -- their strengths, abilities, potential and areas of improvement. The self-awareness of older talent better positions them to be strong and candid communicators, mentors, soundboards for lessons learned and best practices, and pillars of patience in times of change or disruption.

Building a gaming PC isn't difficult, but it's also not always intuitive. That's why we've put together this comprehensive step-by-step guide to building your first gaming PC — complete with tips and tricks from our veteran builders.


The best thing about building your own gaming PC is that the job is never truly finished. You don't just have a custom-built gaming rig, you have a work-in-progress that will always be as current and as cutting-edge as you want (or, as you can afford) it to be. Now, when the next demanding game comes out, you can just swap out your components instead of suffering through choppy details and poorly-rendered landscapes.

PREP 1: PC Build Tools


You will need a large surface to work on, such as a table. To prevent an accidental electrostatic discharge (which can damage sensitive components), make sure you stand on an carpeted surface.


You will need a  screwdriver for just about everything.

Optional: If you're installing an M.2 device, you'll need a screwdriver.

Pro-tip: Magnetic screwdrivers will prevent you from dropping screws inside your case (the magnetic tip is very weak and shouldn't have any effect on your components).

PREP 2: Gaming PC Cases

Before you start picking out components, you should have a case — or, at least, a case size — in mind.The main thing to keep in mind when picking a case is where you're going to put the computer. Your PC's final location will dictate how big you can (or cannot) go, and it will also help determine whether various premium case features are worth splurging on — you probably don't want to pay for a tempered glass side panel if the computer will be hidden under your desk.Cases typically come in three sizes: Full-tower, mid-tower, and mini-tower. These are very general categories (case sizes are not standardized among manufacturers), but they're based on motherboard size: Full-tower cases are designed to fit both Extended-ATX motherboards and standard full-size ATX motherboards; mid-tower cases are designed to fit standard full-size ATX motherboards; and mini-tower cases are designed to fit a number of smaller motherboards, such as mini-ITX motherboards

PREP 3: Gaming PC Part


With all of those purchasing considerations out of the way it time to install your new CPU. First we’ll look at installing Intel’s CPUs, and then AMD’s chips.Start with your motherboard outside of your PC’s case, on a flat surface. Release the small metal lever holding the CPU retention bracket to Intel’s LGA socket in the motherboard.When the CPU’s installed, it’s time to attach the cooler. If you’re using the stock Intel cooler there will already be thermal grease on the underside of the heatsink. If you’re using an aftermarket cooler, then you’ll need to apply a small rice-grain-sized dot of thermal grease—your cooler likely came with a small syringe of it—to the center of the CPU before you set the heatsink on top of it.


Find the M.2 Connection

Before you rush to buy an M.2 SSD via Slickdeals, first make sure your PC is compatible with this type of storage. Only the latest generation of motherboards can accept this new style of SSD, which was originally used primarily in laptops.On the motherboard, look for an M.2 connector — it’s a horizontal slot about an inch wide, usually labeled with “PCIe” or “SATA” or both. Take note of what’s on the label because you’ll need to buy a matching M.2 SSD; a PCIe device won’t work on a SATA connection.

And the way an M.2 SSD communicates with the computer, along with its maximum read/write speed, are identified by technology standards called “PCIe” and “SATA.” PCIe is faster than SATA, but both are great upgrades for any computer, and Slickdeals often features deals for both PCIe M.2 SSDs as well as SATA M.2 SSDs.

Remember how you identified the type of M.2 slot on your motherboard? You’ll want to buy a matching SSD (PCIe or SATA) for that connection.If you’ve already purchased an M.2 SSD and aren’t sure which version you have, the quickest way to find out is to look at the notches on the connector.


Step 1: Apply an even and thin layer of thermal grease on the surface of the installed CPU. Step 2: Place the CPU cooler on the CPU. Step 3: Hook the CPU cooler clip to the mounting lug on one side of the retention frame


Find out what type of RAM is required for your desktop computer. RAM comes in a variety of models and speeds. The type of RAM you can get is dependent on your computer’s motherboard. You’ll need at least two modules to enable a dual-channel mode on platforms such as AMD’s Socket AM4 or Intel’s LGA 1151, or four to enable the quad-channel modes of AMD’s socket TR4 and Intel’s LGA 2066. Check your motherboard or computer’s documentation, or check the manufacturer’s website for the RAM specifications that are compatible with your hardware.RAM is available as DDR (double data rate), DDR2, DDR3, and DDR4. Most newer computers use DDR4. Get the type that matches what your motherboard supports

RAM is identified by two different speed numbers: the PC/PC2/PC3 number and the MHz speed. Make sure that both match your motherboard’s specifications.Check how many sockets you have for RAM. Your motherboard has a limit to the number of RAM sticks you can install. Some motherboards support only two, while others support four, six, or even more.

Most motherboards have a limit to the amount of memory that they support, regardless of the number of slots.


When power is turned on, POST (Power-On Self-Test) is the diagnostic testing sequence that a computer's basic input/output system (or "starting program") runs to determine if the computer keyboard, random access memory, disk drives, and other hardware are working correctly.If the necessary hardware is detected and found to be operating properly, the computer begins to boot. If the hardware is not detected or is found not to be operating properly, the BIOS issues an error message which may be text on the display screen and/or a series of coded beeps, depending on the nature of the problem. Since POST runs before the computer's video card is activated, it may not be possible to progress to the display screen. The pattern of beeps may be a variable numbers of short beeps or a mixture of long and short beeps, depending on what type of BIOS is installed.

The patterns of beeps contain messages about the nature of the problem detected. For example, if the keyboard is not detected, a particular pattern of beeps will inform you of that fact. An error found in the POST is usually fatal (that is, it causes current program to stop running) and will halt the boot process, since the hardware checked is absolutely essential for the computer's functions.

Case to Fit : total components 


You can use these two tools to understand how much wattage your new power supply will need to deliver and which features you’ll want—unless you’re upgrading to a new, more powerful graphics card that demands a new, more powerful PSU. Keep in mind that there’s nothing wrong with buying a power supply that provides more power than you actually need, especially if there’s the possibility of further PC component upgrades in your future.

With your new power supply at the ready, insert it into the exact same position that your old power supply occupied. Reuse the screws that held the old power supply in position on the back panel of the case to do the same thing for your new power supply.Next, you have to connect the internal power cables from your new power supply to the rest of your computer. Plug the 24-pin power connector into your motherboard first, then go for the 4 or 8-pin CPU power connector. Plug in the optical drives, SSDs, and hard drives. Finally plug any required PCI-E power connectors into your graphics card, then double-check all of the plugs to make sure they are securely seated. If you took photos of or labelled the cables on your old power supply, you can now use those as a reference for figuring out how to connect the cables of your new power supply.

Seal your computer’s case back, plug everything back in, and power your computer up. Now you’ve got a PC that’s ready to run for years to come without issue—or at least without PSU-related issues.

Buying a boxed, pre-built desktop is a great way to pick up a computer on the cheap. Knowing how to fix simple issues like a dead power supply is an even better way to get the most out of your money and to avoid splurging on a whole new computer.


The blanking plate fits into the case, and gives you access only to the ports that your motherboard has. However, some motherboard manufacturers use generic blanking plates that fit their entire range of boards. With these, you may need to remove some metal covers to give access to your motherboard’s ports.
The easiest way to see is to hold the blanking plate up to the motherboard until the cutouts match the ports on your board. The blanking plate should be pushed against the motherboard with the ridge pointing out, so any text is readable. It will only fit one way, so maneuver it until it’s the right way. Make a note of any ports that are covered.If you need to remove any parts of the blanking plate, you should do that now. You’ll have two options for doing this. First, you may have to remove a bit of metal, in a similar way to the metal blanking plates on your case. These should be rocked gently out until the metal snaps.
Second, some ports may be covered by a flap. In this case, the flap should be bent inwards (towards where the motherboard will be). Make sure that you bend it far enough for the motherboard’s port to be given enough clearance to pass underneath. From the inside of the case, you need to take the blanking plate and push it into the gap at the rear of the case. Remember to align it so that it’s the same way up as when you measured it against your motherboard.
The ridge around the outside of the plate should clip into the hole. Be warned that this can be really fiddly and the blanking plates don’t always fit perfectly. It should, however, clip into place and remain stable without any support.Next, you need to see where the screw holes for the motherboard will go. Lie the case flat on the desk and make sure that all the internal cables are out of the way. When you’ve got a clear case, take the motherboard off its foam backing and slide it gently into the case. Make sure that its rear ports are pushed up against the blanking plate correctly. Take a note of where the screw holes in the motherboard go, and remove the board. Place it back on its foam.You need to fit risers where you noted the screw holes. These will be included with the case and look like tall copper screws. Their job is to hold the motherboard off the bottom of the case, so it isn’t shorted out when its contacts touch the metal. The risers simply screw into the pre-drilled holes in the case. Use as many risers as there are screw holes in the motherboard, making sure that you screw them tightly into position with your fingers.Put the motherboard back in the case, making sure that all its screw holes have risers underneath. If some are missing, check to make sure that you haven’t screwed the risers into the wrong place. You’ll probably notice that the motherboard has a tendency to be slightly off from the risers. This is normal, and is caused by pressure from the backplate pushing against the motherboard. Simply line up the motherboard’s ports with the backplate and push the motherboard towards it until the screw holes line up. This will take a bit of gentle force.With the motherboard in place, you can start to screw it in. Start with the corners, holding the motherboard firmly, so that its screw holes line up with the risers that you put in. When screwing the screws in, don’t use too much pressure as you don’t want to break the motherboard. Ideally, you want the screws tight enough for the board to be secure, but not so tight that it feels as though the board is going to start cracking.
Once you’ve done the corners, you can put screws in the other holes. How many you put in is up to you, but you shouldn’t need to do all of them to make the motherboard secure. Keep going until the motherboard is firmly in place.


 ATX connectors

 The ATX connector will only plug in one way, so you can’t get it wrong. Once it’s lined up, the connector should plug in smoothly. There’s a clip on it to hold it in place. This will require gentle pressure to get it to clip in, but no more. If you’re having to force the cable, then the chances are that you’ve got the connector the wrong way round. Once the cable is in place, give it a gentle tug to make sure that it’s secure.

secondary connector

Locate the secondary motherboard power connector. Your board’s manual will tell you exactly where it’s located, but on most motherboards, it’s near the processor socket. Next, plug the power supply’s secondary connector into it. This plug will only go in one way, so there’s no chance of getting it wrong.

The connector should slide gently into the plug. You’ll need to apply a bit of force in order to get the clip to lock into place, and you should hear it click when it’s in properly.

Case front Panel Connection

All right, let’s get the worst bit out of the way first. You may want to employ the use of a torch/headlamp or magnifying glass for this part, as you’ll need to find the location of your system panel connector on your motherboard. This is where you’ll be connecting some of your case’s front panel controls like the power button. The writing that labels where it is on the motherboard itself is usually pretty tiny, so it may be more useful to consult your motherboard manual to help you find it. On the whole, though, you’re looking for something like this:

STEP 8: 


Installing a graphics card is a straightforward process that requires three things: a new graphics card, your computer, and a Phillips-head screw driver. Be sure to turn off your PC and unplug it from the wall before you begin.Unless you need to remove an existing GPU, you first need to locate the PCI-E x16 slot closest to the heat sink of your processor. This will either be the first or second expansion slot on your motherboard.Make sure that there are no loose wires blocking your access to this slot. If you’re replacing an existing graphics card, unplug any cables connected to it, remove the screw from its retention bracket on the rear interior of your PC case, and then remove the card. Most motherboards also have a small plastic latch on the end of the PCI-E slot that locks the graphics card in place. Make sure you toggle this latch to unlock your old graphics card so you can remove it.You can now install your new graphics card into the open and unobstructed PCI-E x16 slot. Firmly insert the card into the slot, then push down the plastic lock on the end of the PCI-E slot to hold it in place. Next, use a screw to secure the graphic card's metal retention bracket to your PC's case. You can reuse the same screw(s) that held the cover bracket or your former graphics card in place.


Most desktop hard drives on the market are of the 3.5-inch variety, and are designed to fit into internal 3.5-inch bays in a computer's case, and most cases these days utilize tool-free systems that let you install drives without even a screwdriver, so that's where we're going to start.


and Done


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